Friday, October 8, 2010

Attempted Coup!

Sorry for the delay - life sin computadora has been a bit trying, and September was a busy month! Since posting last, I've attended a Reconnect Conference in Quito with my Omnibus, said goodbye to one COSing (regular end of Peace Corps service) and four ETing (leaving early) volunteers, attended my host cousin's quincenera (15th birthday party), spent a little over a week stuck in site on account of national police strikes and an attempted coup, got some good news on future work projects, and taken my first by-myself nightbus to Quito for a long weekend, from where I am writing this post.

I'm saving more details on the quincenera and work developments for another post, and will devote this one to the attempted coup. Last Thursday, September 30, Peace Corps sent out a message telling all volunteers to go on standfast, the first phase of our evacuation plan. Standfast entails pinpointing all volunteers' locations, then telling them to stay put until either consolidation in provincial capitals and possible evacuation, or an all-clear returning us to normal life. The standfast was enacted in anticipation of unrest likely to arise because of a planned national police strike.

I awoke Friday morning to the usual quiet laziness of my rural site, but shortly thereafter received a text from my mom asking "Did u hear about coup attempt? Is everything ok by u? Has pc said anything?" The text was the first I'd heard of the coup, and I had run out of saldo (phone minutes) the day before, so I couldn't call anyone to find out quickly. I was scheduled to help prepare the soil at one of my schools for a new garden, but decided to head into the town where I lived with my host family to buy saldo and hear the news (this sort of travel is allowed on Standfast - I have to go into town to buy food). The camioneta (pick-up truck) driver and high schooler with whom I shared a ride were discussing the coup and I learned that the national police force kidnapped Rafael Correa, the president of Ecuador, in a quasi-coup attempt on Thursday night (I'm unsure if the goal was to take over the government or just force Correa to repeal a new law they don't like). The kidnapping was short-lived and by my Friday morning camioneta ride, the military had already rescued him from the police kidnappers and the South American and international communities had expressed their support for the elected president.

Because of the coup, school across the country was cancelled, so my day was free and I spent time on the internet, then went over to my host parents' house and watched the news with my host mom. I really enjoyed talking with her about the coup. She was feeling shaken by the coup attempt, and not terribly proud of Ecuador, but I actually helped her feel better, pointing out that the coup's failure was probably a good sign for Ecuador - that the country was stable enough to withstand such an assault. She reflected on that and agreed, remembering the occasions in the not that distant past when Ecuadorian governments did not fare so well when faced with affronts to their power.

The country was placed under an "exceptional state" following the coup, meaning that the military took control of security throughout the country and retains it until tomorrow, Saturday, when the police force is scheduled to return to its normal duties. I'm not sure what the difference between an "exceptional state" and marshal law is - they seam awfully similar to me - but the official name for the state of affairs here has been the former. In Quito and Guayaquil the military was roving the streets picking up groups bigger than 2, at times, and there were a few gun fights and a big uptick in robberies. Out by me, life was unchanged except for a few more people from the ejercito (army) walking around, though there wasn't any obvious unrest for them to contain. Friends in Ciudad de Loja said all they heard of happening was a bank and mini-mart robbery. My province is super tranquilo, as they say in Spanish, and when it comes to political instability, I'm happy with things this way.

So, that was my experience with a coup attempt. Interesting in a far-away sense, but pretty unevently in my physical relm. Let's hope things remain calm!

3 comments:

  1. Dear Alli

    I read your blog today, and wanted you to know what a delight it was to be transported by your words to the place in which you have arrived.

    You are such a good writer that I was right there with you on the bus with your machete, walking along the road collecting the animal poo, relaxing in your hammock, and watching for the toad in the toilet! It occurred to me how much other people would enjoy reading about your experiences. When Catherine was in Senegal she submitted a few articles about life there to the Tecumseh Herald, and so many people enjoyed reading them. People stopped me in the street to tell me how much they were enjoying them! I think that because Tecumseh is so relatively parochial, it seems exotic but interesting to read about "normal" (I use the word loosely!) people living overseas. My son did the same thing when he was in China. May I go in to the Herald and ask if they would be interested? You are such a talented writer, and I think you should be 'published'. Maybe you could take a few of your blogs and edit them a little so it would not take much work on your part. I think Tecumseh-ites need to be taken to foreign parts....

    Your article about the ups and downs of the Peace Corps resonated with me, as I am also living in a kind of strange land myself these days. I have separated from my husband after 35 years of marriage (after finding that he had been living a double life for many years) and am trying to get used to being alone. As with anything in life, there are good things and bad, but it is a foreign place and I am trying to see it as an adventure!

    Do you know that Marybeth Cunningham's niece is in Malawi with the PC? She was just robbed of her computer, and hit a really low period, but is getting back on her feet.

    I am happy that you are working on farm issues, even if it was not your expected area of expertise. There is so much which needs to be fixed, and it may not need high tech solutions.

    Got to run. Am going to walk at Hidden Lake Gardens, in the lovely Autumn sunshine. My favorite time of year in Michigan, with the smell of fall and the beautiful colors.

    Stay well. Thanks again for taking me away from the Midwest!

    Jocelyn

    ReplyDelete
  2. Jocelyn,

    Firstly, I hope your walk in Hidden Lake Gardens was pleasant. I´m missing fall in Michigan and hoping a bit of it will linger long enough for me to enjoy when I visit at Thanksgiving.

    Secondly, thank-you so much for the comments and compliments. I really appreciate knowing that people are enjoying the blog. It makes my time in Ecuador seem more worthwhile if I can share a bit of the experience.

    Thirdly, I would love for you to ask the Herald if they´d be interested in running a few articles. I read Catherine´s articles from Senegal and remember enjoying exactly the exoticism of a Tecumsehite abroad. The Herald published a short letter-to-the-editor I sent them publicising my blog back in May or June, so, tal vez, they will be interested. I have to get all press releases approved by my country director, but I don´t think that will be a problem. Do you have any suggestions on posts (or combined posts) to edit for the Herald?

    Thanks again for your comments and buena suerte adjusting to life on your own - I know it´s a difficult endeavor.

    Allison

    ReplyDelete
  3. Hi Alli,
    Just wanted to share my personal "Coup" story. As you know, I've been (forced into) using your phone since you left the country. I was attending an international engineering conference at work when all of a sudden my pocket started buzzing. Fortunately I managed previously to set your phone to stun-only mode. When I pulled it out I was surprised to find your text message to all of us that you were safe and things were quiet immediately around you, but sounded a bit dicey in Quito. As I had no foreknowledge of the "Coup" event this was a little shocking. At least I didn't have to worry about you as much as Mom had earlier in the day when she discovered the "Coup" on her own. Dad

    ReplyDelete